The good news is it looks like I will be going back to the States next week. The bad news is I'm paying for it.
Most teaching contracts in Korea come with severance pay. This is typically equal to one month's salary and is paid at the completion of the contract. My school also offers severance pay, but with the twist that it's paid one month after completion of the contract. For me this worked out perfectly as I should only be home for a month and when I return to Korea I would have a fresh paycheck. However, the only way my school has agreed to pay for my plane ticket is to advance me the money from my severance pay. A one-way ticket to the States is 1 million won (roughly $1000) and my severance is 1.9 million won minus taxes, etc. So, this won't leave me with a lot of money to come back to Korea. Though it's better than the alternative of living on the streets of Itaewon.
As for what I'll do when I'm home, I don't really know. I suspect a lot of my time with be spent in boredom, watching television, surfing the internet and what have you. To combat this I've recently purchased a fat new Korean grammar book and an electronic Korean-English dictionary, so I can spend some time studying Korean.
I also assume I will indulge in all the food I've been unable to eat over the past year and a half. Mmmm... Mexican... So, maybe I'll consider joining a gym for a month. This should not only help with the boredom but also prevent me from returning to Korea as an even bigger balloon than I've already become.
The job search for October is still in progress. I've had numerous calls and emails. Just today I received three emails and two phone calls for prospective jobs, but I've not been interested in most of the positions as I've been in Korea for some time now and have grown a bit picky. However, today I got a call that I've very interested in and am looking forward to hearing back about it.
The next few days I will begin the arduous process of packing up my apartment and getting things stored away. I say that now, but more than likely I'll wait until the very last minute as I'm want to do. I, like most people, hate moving.
8.29.2005
8.24.2005
Coming home?
This post was set to be the post where I informed all of those at home, who are not yet aware, that I'd be in the States in two weeks for a one month break and then return to Korea at the beginning of October. However, the hakwon I currently work for threw a major monkey wrench in my plans today.
No international airfare home will be provided to the Teacher hired in-country except if the Teacher extends for a second year, then a one-way ticket is provided to the west coast of USA or Canada, or a place in other countries within the equivalent cost.
It's a very standard practice for hakwons to provide round-trip airfare for teachers to come to work in Korea. This is one of the key incentives that gets people here. That and the free apartment. However, as you can see from the section of my contract above it states that teachers hired who are already in-country (i.e., Korea) will not be provided with airfare home. I was hired "in-country" as I'd worked at a different hakwon previously.
For the past two months I've questioned the administration at my hakwon repeatedly about my ticket home. I've seen other teachers run into problems and wanted to make sure I had everything taken care of in advance. Every time I talked to the administration I was assured that my ticket would be purchased for me and that I would have it within the next week. Then, today, with a week and a half before my contract expires, I was informed that my school would not be purchasing the ticket. FUCK!!!!
I realize this is ultimately my fault for not paying more attention to the contract, but to tell me with seven working days left is frustrating to say the least. So, at this point I don't know if I'll come to the States. I don't know what I will do. My visa officially expires September 9th so I must be out of the country by then. If I were a responsible and reasonable person I would simply dip into my savings and buy the tickets home myself. But, if you know me, you know why that is funny.
So, I'll be scrambling the next couple days trying to figure out what I'll do. I've sent a letter to the owner of the hakwon, so for now I'm awaiting a response. I considered posting my letter to her here, but figured she deserved a chance to respond first. If it gets more interesting maybe I will put it here.
No international airfare home will be provided to the Teacher hired in-country except if the Teacher extends for a second year, then a one-way ticket is provided to the west coast of USA or Canada, or a place in other countries within the equivalent cost.
It's a very standard practice for hakwons to provide round-trip airfare for teachers to come to work in Korea. This is one of the key incentives that gets people here. That and the free apartment. However, as you can see from the section of my contract above it states that teachers hired who are already in-country (i.e., Korea) will not be provided with airfare home. I was hired "in-country" as I'd worked at a different hakwon previously.
For the past two months I've questioned the administration at my hakwon repeatedly about my ticket home. I've seen other teachers run into problems and wanted to make sure I had everything taken care of in advance. Every time I talked to the administration I was assured that my ticket would be purchased for me and that I would have it within the next week. Then, today, with a week and a half before my contract expires, I was informed that my school would not be purchasing the ticket. FUCK!!!!
I realize this is ultimately my fault for not paying more attention to the contract, but to tell me with seven working days left is frustrating to say the least. So, at this point I don't know if I'll come to the States. I don't know what I will do. My visa officially expires September 9th so I must be out of the country by then. If I were a responsible and reasonable person I would simply dip into my savings and buy the tickets home myself. But, if you know me, you know why that is funny.
So, I'll be scrambling the next couple days trying to figure out what I'll do. I've sent a letter to the owner of the hakwon, so for now I'm awaiting a response. I considered posting my letter to her here, but figured she deserved a chance to respond first. If it gets more interesting maybe I will put it here.
8.17.2005
Everything
The summer intensive schedule along with looking for a new job when I return to Korea have kept me very busy hence the lack of updates. But as promised I have lots of pictures and a few stories to share.
Since arriving in Korea a year and a half ago I have eaten nearly every meal out. With the exception of Ramyeon and a few cans of tuna, every meal has been in a restaurant or ordered from a restaurant and eaten at home. The reasons for this are two-fold. First, my apartment is the size of a small storage shed with nearly zero ventilation and the only method of cooking I have is a small, portable camping stove. Second, eating out in Korea in very cheap. I can eat a full meal for about W2500 or about $2.50. A really expensive meal such as 갈비 galbi, barbecued beef, will cost w8000, W9000 if you order rice.
Add these to the fact that I live alone and cooking for yourself is rather boring and you can see why I've never made the effort to make my own meals. That is until a couple of weeks ago when Yunha thought it would be fun to make dinner at my apartment. I thought it odd being that she can't cook, but went along with it anyway. It turns out (many people in Korea may know this, I didn't) that grocery stores sell pre-packaged Korean meals. These aren't the frozen and bagged meals I was used to in the States, but all of the freshly cut ingredients to make meals yourself.
Here's a sample of what I've been making. This is 시굴돼지찌개 Sigul Dwaeji Chigae, which roughly translates to Country Pork Stew. All it took was to open the package, fry the pork, add in the vegetables (onions, green peppers, red peppers, cucumber, etc), pour in the pre-made stock and hot pepper sauce, add water and boil. It was delicious, if not incredibly hot, but then again I couldn't read the Korean directions so I just guessed as to the method. So, now I've been doing a lot of cooking. Today I made some Pork galbi and have a pack of my favorite Bu Dae Chigae waiting for tomorrow.
Apart from cooking, on my time off I've mostly recovered from my hectic schedule, but I did make it to Seoul a couple of times.
Yunha and I went to the 63 Building, the tallest building in Seoul and I think this picture best sums up the enormity of this city. Imagine this 360 degrees around you. Also, she thought if was fun to watch me have a panic attack on the glass elevator on the way up. I'm not so good with heights.
Another shot from the 63 building. I put it here just to show the air pollution.
I probably find this funnier than most people, but I've never seen a historical account actually mention being assassinated by ninjas. This was part of the photo exhibition in the 63 Building.
Along the Han river are these cute, if not cheesy swan-shaped paddle boats. I'd gush about how fun and exciting these things are if not for the fact that it was on one them that I lost my wallet and everything in it. Now I just want to whack them with a bat.
At least the view of the sun setting from the Swan-on-the-Han is nice.
Since arriving in Korea a year and a half ago I have eaten nearly every meal out. With the exception of Ramyeon and a few cans of tuna, every meal has been in a restaurant or ordered from a restaurant and eaten at home. The reasons for this are two-fold. First, my apartment is the size of a small storage shed with nearly zero ventilation and the only method of cooking I have is a small, portable camping stove. Second, eating out in Korea in very cheap. I can eat a full meal for about W2500 or about $2.50. A really expensive meal such as 갈비 galbi, barbecued beef, will cost w8000, W9000 if you order rice.
Add these to the fact that I live alone and cooking for yourself is rather boring and you can see why I've never made the effort to make my own meals. That is until a couple of weeks ago when Yunha thought it would be fun to make dinner at my apartment. I thought it odd being that she can't cook, but went along with it anyway. It turns out (many people in Korea may know this, I didn't) that grocery stores sell pre-packaged Korean meals. These aren't the frozen and bagged meals I was used to in the States, but all of the freshly cut ingredients to make meals yourself.

Apart from cooking, on my time off I've mostly recovered from my hectic schedule, but I did make it to Seoul a couple of times.





8.04.2005
Camera

8.03.2005
Curse
I'm on a much needed vacation all of this week, but since my contract with my school is finished in a month I decided not to make any big plans for my week off. Yunha and I decided, however, to take a few days to get away from Seoul and relax. Since this is the high season for travel around Korea and that when presented with time off from work nearly all Koreans flock to the same two or three locations, we tried to pick a more out-of-the-way location. Thus, I took out my trusty Lonely Planet Seoul guide, eyed a map and picked 이천 or Icheon (not to be confused with 인천 Incheon the location of Korea's largest airport and made famous by General Douglas Macarthur when his landing there turned the tide of the Korea war).
Icheon is roughly an hour by bus south of Seoul and as Yunha said "it's very famous for rice and water". Sounds exciting! Of course, by water she meant it's famous for its hot springs and according to its official website it is indeed famous for rice as well. Aside from those, it's also home to a vary large ceramics village. Needless to say, none of these attractions are why I chose Icheon, mostly I just wanted a place that wasn't crowded.
This turned out to be true. Icheon didn't appear any busier than it may on a normal week. The problem, however, is that I'm cursed. It seems that anytime I take even a short trip somewhere there are always freak weather conditions. Last year around this time I took a week-long trip to Seokcho on the Eastern coast of Korea and spent five days in my hotel looking out the window at ferocious rain and wind. It seems I'd timed my trip perfectly with the onset of a monsoon. Then last year when I arrived in Bangkok on Christmas day only to encounter an earthquake and the deadliest tsunami in history the following day. Of course, this curse isn't limited to Asia. There were the massive Mid-western floods of 1993 that drowned the city of St. Louis. The unusual tornados in suburban Atlanta. And the many many hurricanes. All of these coinciding with my arrival or departure at a location.
My trip to Icheon proved to be less catastrophic than previous adventures, and yet the curse still showed signs of life. For the two and a half days we were away it poured rain nearly the entire time. Even the smallest trip out of the hotel and across the street for dinner left my pants soaked to the knees, my umbrella turned inside out and my shoes squishing with rainwater. Despite the bad weather it was a good trip with the highlights being feeding potato chips to fish in the lake and letting Yunha beat me at pool. We tried to find the ceramics village once, but the long distance and driving rain eventually got the best of us. I did sample some of the famous rice and must say honestly: it tasted like rice.
Icheon is roughly an hour by bus south of Seoul and as Yunha said "it's very famous for rice and water". Sounds exciting! Of course, by water she meant it's famous for its hot springs and according to its official website it is indeed famous for rice as well. Aside from those, it's also home to a vary large ceramics village. Needless to say, none of these attractions are why I chose Icheon, mostly I just wanted a place that wasn't crowded.
This turned out to be true. Icheon didn't appear any busier than it may on a normal week. The problem, however, is that I'm cursed. It seems that anytime I take even a short trip somewhere there are always freak weather conditions. Last year around this time I took a week-long trip to Seokcho on the Eastern coast of Korea and spent five days in my hotel looking out the window at ferocious rain and wind. It seems I'd timed my trip perfectly with the onset of a monsoon. Then last year when I arrived in Bangkok on Christmas day only to encounter an earthquake and the deadliest tsunami in history the following day. Of course, this curse isn't limited to Asia. There were the massive Mid-western floods of 1993 that drowned the city of St. Louis. The unusual tornados in suburban Atlanta. And the many many hurricanes. All of these coinciding with my arrival or departure at a location.
My trip to Icheon proved to be less catastrophic than previous adventures, and yet the curse still showed signs of life. For the two and a half days we were away it poured rain nearly the entire time. Even the smallest trip out of the hotel and across the street for dinner left my pants soaked to the knees, my umbrella turned inside out and my shoes squishing with rainwater. Despite the bad weather it was a good trip with the highlights being feeding potato chips to fish in the lake and letting Yunha beat me at pool. We tried to find the ceramics village once, but the long distance and driving rain eventually got the best of us. I did sample some of the famous rice and must say honestly: it tasted like rice.
7.25.2005
Intensives
Two times a year Korean schools close for a brief vacation, once in the summer and again in winter. This is similar to the North American style with the exception that the Korean breaks are much shorter and the breaks are equal in length. During the school year students of all ages are expected to not only attend school and perform well, but also to attend numerous 학원 or hakwons (academies' or 'institutes' depending on which Korean is talking). These academies range from piano to math, Chinese to English, Tae kwon-do to ballet and include stranger incarnations such as the famous Lego Academy. Whatever the subject, most students are enrolled in a number of differing academies and from first grade onward their lives are dictated by what form of schooling is next.
A typical day for an elementary student may be as follows:
8am-2pm Elementary school
2:30pm-4pm English Academy
4:30pm-5:30pm Piano Academy
6pm-7pm Math Academy
7:30pm-8:30pm Chinese Academy
This is by no means an exaggeration and in fact may be quite less than what many students endure. Even still, most students appear to be well adjusted and, as I'm sure most know, well ahead intellectually of their western counterparts. Nevertheless, they certainly look forward to those two times of year when school lets out and they are free to roam the streets as children do and play in the sun and snow...
Hahaha. If only that were the case. School vacation in Korea doesn't equate to children running around entertaining themselves. When schools close their doors for summer and winter students find unexpected extra time on their hands. And what do sensible people do with extra time? STUDY!!
Which brings me to my point. I teach at one of the aforementioned academies, obviously of the English variety, and we've just opened our 'Summer Intensive Session'. This is the time for all of those children who've just been released from the clutches of their elementary and middle schools to spend five days a week 'intensively' studying English. Some vacation.
Truthfully, it is not the children that I really feel sorry for in this whole process. Sure, they are deprived of their free time and forced to spend the sunny and snowy seasons indoors cramming English into their brains, but who really gets the short end of the stick? Me!
Because of this custom of utilizing every second of a child's life to further their education I'm forced to wake up early (9am) each day for a month and drag myself across town to cover the extra classes. I know, it's torturous. Would it really be such a bad thing to let these children spend two months of the year outside of a classroom? And more importantly, let me resume my usual wake time of eleven-thirty.
A typical day for an elementary student may be as follows:
8am-2pm Elementary school
2:30pm-4pm English Academy
4:30pm-5:30pm Piano Academy
6pm-7pm Math Academy
7:30pm-8:30pm Chinese Academy
This is by no means an exaggeration and in fact may be quite less than what many students endure. Even still, most students appear to be well adjusted and, as I'm sure most know, well ahead intellectually of their western counterparts. Nevertheless, they certainly look forward to those two times of year when school lets out and they are free to roam the streets as children do and play in the sun and snow...
Hahaha. If only that were the case. School vacation in Korea doesn't equate to children running around entertaining themselves. When schools close their doors for summer and winter students find unexpected extra time on their hands. And what do sensible people do with extra time? STUDY!!
Which brings me to my point. I teach at one of the aforementioned academies, obviously of the English variety, and we've just opened our 'Summer Intensive Session'. This is the time for all of those children who've just been released from the clutches of their elementary and middle schools to spend five days a week 'intensively' studying English. Some vacation.
Truthfully, it is not the children that I really feel sorry for in this whole process. Sure, they are deprived of their free time and forced to spend the sunny and snowy seasons indoors cramming English into their brains, but who really gets the short end of the stick? Me!
Because of this custom of utilizing every second of a child's life to further their education I'm forced to wake up early (9am) each day for a month and drag myself across town to cover the extra classes. I know, it's torturous. Would it really be such a bad thing to let these children spend two months of the year outside of a classroom? And more importantly, let me resume my usual wake time of eleven-thirty.
7.21.2005
Heat
The temperature in Seoul is hovering around four thousand degrees right now and the air quality must be two hundred percent smog. So, stepping out of my apartment is akin to stepping into a sauna with an idling car parked inside. In other words, it's miserable.
I've always assumed that I sweat more than the average person, but being in Korea takes this to a whole new level. Not only is the heat unbearable, but I'm surrounded by an entire race of people who wouldn't sweat on the surface of the sun. This becomes especially amusing as I make my way to work each morning. You see, someone had the genius idea to install what appear to be greenhouse panels on the roof of the subway station in Sanbon. So, after I've walked the short distance to the subway, climbed up the long ramp, and proceed up two flights of stairs I emerge, already half wet, into the sweltering hell that is Sanbon station. There I stand, rivers of sweat streaming from every inch of my body, as Koreans marvel at this wonderful freak of nature that is the sweaty foreigner. Often I take refuge behind a little building on the platform, the only place out of direct sunlight, or I stretch and groan, feigning that I've just returned from the gym. Once the subway train arrives I'm granted a short reprieve as the Seoul Subway is mercifully air-conditioned. However, my relief is short lived for after two quick stops I'm forced off the subway and made to stand in the blazing sun and await a bus, which may or may not be equipped with air-conditioning.
Needless to say, by the time I arrive at work I'm soaked in sweat, my clothes have gone from freshly pressed to damp and musty, but most importantly my hair is a mess.
Anyway, all of this is soon to be a moot point for not only will the hot season fade, but I'll be leaving my job in the near future. I've been conflicted with the decision to leave as I've truly enjoyed my current school and hate to mess up a good situation. However, what Koreans refer to as "Seoul Disease" has severely afflicted me as well as the desire to move out of my cockroach infested cell of an apartment. My decision was made mildly easier the other day by news from my favorite student that at the end of July his family will be moving and he will no longer attend my class. It's strange how something like this can affect you. However this is a student I've taught since my first day at the school and not only have I seen him progress, but he's undoubtedly the funniest 10 year old on the planet. I wasn't looking forward to having another teacher come in and get their grimy paws on him, but now that I know he's leaving it's all the more reason for me to do the same.
I've always assumed that I sweat more than the average person, but being in Korea takes this to a whole new level. Not only is the heat unbearable, but I'm surrounded by an entire race of people who wouldn't sweat on the surface of the sun. This becomes especially amusing as I make my way to work each morning. You see, someone had the genius idea to install what appear to be greenhouse panels on the roof of the subway station in Sanbon. So, after I've walked the short distance to the subway, climbed up the long ramp, and proceed up two flights of stairs I emerge, already half wet, into the sweltering hell that is Sanbon station. There I stand, rivers of sweat streaming from every inch of my body, as Koreans marvel at this wonderful freak of nature that is the sweaty foreigner. Often I take refuge behind a little building on the platform, the only place out of direct sunlight, or I stretch and groan, feigning that I've just returned from the gym. Once the subway train arrives I'm granted a short reprieve as the Seoul Subway is mercifully air-conditioned. However, my relief is short lived for after two quick stops I'm forced off the subway and made to stand in the blazing sun and await a bus, which may or may not be equipped with air-conditioning.
Needless to say, by the time I arrive at work I'm soaked in sweat, my clothes have gone from freshly pressed to damp and musty, but most importantly my hair is a mess.
Anyway, all of this is soon to be a moot point for not only will the hot season fade, but I'll be leaving my job in the near future. I've been conflicted with the decision to leave as I've truly enjoyed my current school and hate to mess up a good situation. However, what Koreans refer to as "Seoul Disease" has severely afflicted me as well as the desire to move out of my cockroach infested cell of an apartment. My decision was made mildly easier the other day by news from my favorite student that at the end of July his family will be moving and he will no longer attend my class. It's strange how something like this can affect you. However this is a student I've taught since my first day at the school and not only have I seen him progress, but he's undoubtedly the funniest 10 year old on the planet. I wasn't looking forward to having another teacher come in and get their grimy paws on him, but now that I know he's leaving it's all the more reason for me to do the same.
7.20.2005
Bucheon International Film Fest
Sunday I headed to Bucheon to meet Yunha. When I stepped off the train she suprised me with a guide to The 9th Bucheon International Fantastic Film Festival. I'd known about this festival before and had casually asked Yunha to find out when it was, but she, of course, went a little further.

Flipping through the book, we found a showing later in the evening of a Swedish film called Popular Music. It turned out to be fantastic. Throughout the screening of the film the audience alternatley laughed, gasped and cringed in unison. It was one of those rare movies where the entire audience applauded when the film finished. Little films like this in settings like this always remind me what it is that I love so much about going to movies.
However, the highlight of the festival for me was not the film, but the enjoyment I found in reading the utterly horrible English descriptions of the films in the guide book. In a country like Korea where there are hundreds of thousands of native English-speakers teaching English, it is beyond me why companies and events don't hire a native speaker to do the English translations. I would think they would be embarassed by the poor Englsih, especially for an event calling itself an International Film Festival, but I guess not. There are hundreds of examples from the book but I'll only give a few.

First Time
She becomes a producer of a travel channel with hiding himself who imagine it, meet a choosy artist.
What?!?!?
Rottweiller
Dante breaks out of prison. His dog, Rott, a devilish homicide who eats human flesh with his awful teeth, follows him. It will be good if you find you the deep intention, you can enjoy a scene of cruel carnage.
The Nomi Song
Diva? Alien? Or a pantomimist who dance electric boogie? No! No! No! All of them are wrong. You can feel pathetic, awe and touching than in any film. Let's follow the film is more than film!!
I have no idea what this film is about, but I'd be pissed if I made it and this was the description given. My favorite part is the two exclamation points at the end.
Strange Crimes
Daniel is a writer who uses pseudonym. At his stepson's wedding, he has one night stand with beautiful woman. The love affair which can be over but give a hint of tragic end with the fact that she is stepson's bride. The woman breaks Daniel heart with a steady temptaion. Her friends watch the tragedy with odd smile. His wife and stepson are jealous. While the secret between Daniel and his friend who was suicide, their relationship run up to extreme.
Wait! His friend was suicide?
There are many, many more...

Flipping through the book, we found a showing later in the evening of a Swedish film called Popular Music. It turned out to be fantastic. Throughout the screening of the film the audience alternatley laughed, gasped and cringed in unison. It was one of those rare movies where the entire audience applauded when the film finished. Little films like this in settings like this always remind me what it is that I love so much about going to movies.
However, the highlight of the festival for me was not the film, but the enjoyment I found in reading the utterly horrible English descriptions of the films in the guide book. In a country like Korea where there are hundreds of thousands of native English-speakers teaching English, it is beyond me why companies and events don't hire a native speaker to do the English translations. I would think they would be embarassed by the poor Englsih, especially for an event calling itself an International Film Festival, but I guess not. There are hundreds of examples from the book but I'll only give a few.

First Time
She becomes a producer of a travel channel with hiding himself who imagine it, meet a choosy artist.
What?!?!?
Rottweiller
Dante breaks out of prison. His dog, Rott, a devilish homicide who eats human flesh with his awful teeth, follows him. It will be good if you find you the deep intention, you can enjoy a scene of cruel carnage.
The Nomi Song
Diva? Alien? Or a pantomimist who dance electric boogie? No! No! No! All of them are wrong. You can feel pathetic, awe and touching than in any film. Let's follow the film is more than film!!
I have no idea what this film is about, but I'd be pissed if I made it and this was the description given. My favorite part is the two exclamation points at the end.
Strange Crimes
Daniel is a writer who uses pseudonym. At his stepson's wedding, he has one night stand with beautiful woman. The love affair which can be over but give a hint of tragic end with the fact that she is stepson's bride. The woman breaks Daniel heart with a steady temptaion. Her friends watch the tragedy with odd smile. His wife and stepson are jealous. While the secret between Daniel and his friend who was suicide, their relationship run up to extreme.
Wait! His friend was suicide?
There are many, many more...
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